The Forbidden City's red walls and golden roof tiles, labyrinthine lanes running through low-slung grey brick hutong neighborhoods, futuristic skyscrapers punctuating the horizon in all directions, broad avenues and the expanse of Tian'anmen Square, traffic jams and dust storms, ancient imperial gardens, bustling markets.... Beijing holds astonishing sights and countless adventures for the curious.
Steeped in the past even as it focuses with all its might on the future, Beijing is continuously emerging and re-emerging on the global stage, cementing its place as a bona fide world power after hosting the 2008 Olympic Games. Since the Olympics, vast areas of the city have been transformed as new high-rise complexes displacing old hutong warrens, yet Old Beijing holds fast in surprising ways and places.
Our guide to Beijing gives you the latest information on what to do and see in this amazing city. Help us improve the guide by sharing your thoughts in our comments section, sharing your Beijing tips and stories in the China Travel Forum or adding reviews of Beijing attractions, hotels and restaurants.
History
North of the traditional Han Chinese heartland, Beijing has been at the center of China's cultural and political life for the better part of seven centuries, although archeological record show the first human settlements in the Beijing area occurred as early as the 11th century BC.
During the 8th century AD, the Yan Kingdom established its capital, Yanjing, in the area, but later relinquished control to the Qin Dynasty, which unified China in 221 BC after the Warring States
Later known as Jicheng, Beijing remained a center of trade, government and military operations, defending China from aggressive northern tribes. In 938 AD the Northern Liao Dynasty established a second capital near Beijing, called Nanjing (a different city entirely from the Kuomintang capital Nanjing, Jiangsu). The Liao built the first city walls, which were expanded by the Jurchen Jin Dynasty, who made it their capital in 1153 AD, once again renaming the city, this time to Zhongdu.
In the 13th century AD, after the Mongol invasion, Beijing fell under the jurisdiction of Kublai Khan, serving as the capital of the Yuan Dynasty under the names Khanbaliq (Mongolian for "grand home of the Khan") and Dadu ("great capital"). This metropolis impressed explorer Marco Polo so greatly, that his tales of his time in the court of the Khan inspired generations of European explorers to seek better trade routes to the East.
After several more regime changes, Yongle (1403-1425), ruler of the Ming Dynasty, seized power, leveled all Yuan Dynasty buildings, initiated the construction of many of modern Beijing's most famous landmarks, including the Forbidden City and the Temple of Heaven, and renamed the city Beijing (Northern Capital).
As the capital of imperial China for the next 586 years, Beijing witnessed wars, corrupt Emperors and Empresses, foreign attacks (the British and French in 1860) and revolts (the Boxer Rebellion in 1900, for one).
As the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) decayed at the end of the nineteenth century and early twentieth, ceding territory to Western colonial powers and Japan, Beijing became a center of political agitation as nationalist students demonstrated against Qing corruption, in favor of modernizing China. The city fell into turmoil after the fall of the Qing, changing hands repeatedly during 1911 and 1912.
The end of World War II brought about the end of the Japanese occupation that began in 1937, and the abolition of all foreign concessions in the city, restoring Beijing to Chinese sovereignty. After four more years of civil war the, Communists emerged victorious, and on October 1, 1949, in Tian'anmen Square, Mao Zedong proclaimed Beijing the capital of the People's Republic of China.
As previous rulers had often done, Mao made a symbolic break with the previous order by reinventing the capital. Between 1965 and 1969, the old city wall was torn down. Hundreds of temples and monuments were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976) and old neighborhoods were leveled to broaden boulevards and enlarge Tian'anmen Square.
The upheaval of the Cultural Revolution ended with Mao's death in 1976, and in the transitional years that followed, China began its reform and opening up economic policy under Deng Xiaoping. Along with economic changes, many Chinese began to look for increased freedom of expression and broader political reform.
Beijing students took the lead, challenging the status quo with the Democracy Wall in 1978-1979 and a decade later with the protests that culminated in the tragic 1989 Tian'anmen Square face-off between the People's Liberation Army and demonstrators. Deng's economic reforms have continued under
subsequent leadership, fueling China's epic economic boom.
Climate
The best times to visit Beijing are spring (April and May are nicest) and fall (September and October can be beautiful). Beijing experiences cold and dry winters, with January temperatures falling to -8ºC (17ºF). By July, the city's average highs exceed 30ºC (86ºF) as Southeast Asia's monsoon system pushes hot and humid air northward, bringing with it regular rains.
Spring and summer also see occasional sandstorms, as sand and dust from the Gobi Desert blow into the city. Air pollution often combines with humidity and dust to create a thick smog that blankets the city.
As one of China's most developed cities, Beijing boasts a variety of hotel options, ranging from big international chains and Chinese five-stars to an array of budget options.
Beijing's food scene is as rich and varied as the vast country it has ruled for so long. The capital's cuisine boasts a wealth of dishes influenced by centuries of China's eight great culinary traditions. While Beijing Imperial Cuisine and Aristocrat Cuisine were developed for emperors and high officials by the best chefs from around the empire, common Beijingers created their own light snacks and hearty dishes, perfect fuel for a long day's work in either steamy summer heat or bitter winter cold. Unlike the south with its vast rice paddies, Beijing's staple is wheat, frequently made into flour used to make noodles and buns.
Of course, today's dining options extend far beyond China's boundaries, as foreign restaurants—from fast food to fine dining—open around the city at a rapid rate. From cheap and delicious street food to endless banquets of dishes once reserved for emperors to the latest in global fusion, Beijing offers the hungry visitor a wonderful range of choices.
Beijing Roast Duck
Slow roasted and succulent, this famous dish (Beijing kao ya) is served with thin crepe-like "lotus leaf pancakes" (heye bing), sweet noodle sauce (tianmianjiang) or hoisin sauce (haixianjiang) and finely sliced green onions. Often an adept chef slices the freshly roast duck table-side before serving, separating the skin from the meat. Once served, the meat is wrapped in a pancake with all the fixings and quickly enjoyed. There is, of course, much debate about where to get Beijing's best roast duck, but Quanjude and Li Qun are always at the top of the list.
Street Food
Carts, stalls and stands selling Beijing's delicious street food dot the city. For breakfast try the sweet and healthy douzhi (a kind of soy milk) and a jian bing, which consists of a quick-fried crepe-like pancake topped with a scrambled egg and various condiments—typical options include sweet soy paste, chili sauce, pickled vegetables, chopped green onions and a crispy strip of fried dough. Other snacks include a steamed wheat bun (mantou) or a baozi (stuffed steam bun) made with any number of fillings, the most typical being seasoned pork. Alongside bamboo steamers and flat jian bing frying pans, you'll often find immigrants from western China—often Uighurs from Xinjiang—grilling yangrou chuanr (lamb skewers seasoned with cumin and other spices) or stalls selling the sandwich-like roujiamo made of a sliced bun accommodating shredded meat—pork or lamb—along with lettuce and seasonings.
There are a number of areas in the city that are, essentially, devoted to food. Try Wangfujing Food Street for its large collection of stalls and locally owned restaurants. Longfusi Snack Street offers snacks specific to Beijing, and if you're in the mood for a midnight treat, try Gui Jie or Donghuamen Snack Night Market (located on the north end of Wangfujing) both open all night long.
Getting Around
Beijing has a reputation for being a difficult city to get around in, though that promises to change somewhat with additions to the subway and highway systems coming on line by mid 2008, just in time for the Olympics. The city's notorious traffic—the source of much of its equally infamous air pollution—tends to clog the inner ring roads and highways during the day, with traffic only clearing after the evening rush hour winds down around 8:00 p.m. This often makes a subway-taxi combo the best bet, limiting road time to a ride to the nearest subway station. The trains are usually packed, but the system is efficient and quick. The cars make cycling less appealing than it once was, but most main roads have separate bike lanes and exploring the heart of the city on two wheels is a great way to go. Walking the center is also advised, though the size of the capital makes frequent cab—whether taxi or pedicab—trips a necessity for many visitors.
Subway
As of 2007, the system was comprised of Lines 1, 2, 5, 13 (light rail) and the Badong Line. Lines 8, 9 and 10 are slated for completion in 2008. Line 1 (the east-west line) runs past Tiananmen Square from the West Pingguoyuan Station to Sihui Station in the east; Line 2 (the circle line) runs around the center of the city with a Beijing Railway Station stop at its southeast corner. Subways run from 5:00 am to 11:00 pm. As of 2008, all fares are RMB 2 throughout the system. The system has undergone upgrades to accommodate a new yikatong (a "one card pass" smart card) system—buy a card for a RMB 20 deposit and add value in RMB 10 increments. Some taxis now also accept yikatong payment.
Taxi
Beijing taxi drivers have a reputation for tricking tourists, especially from the airport, so always make sure you're in a metered cab and don't accept negotiated fares. That said, the city government has begun enforcing regulations in advance of the Olympics, and cabbie behavior has reportedly improved. Fares start at RMB 10 during the day and RMB 11 after 10 p.m. After the first three kilometers (about 1.7 miles), each additional kilometer is between RMB 1.20 and 1.60, depending on the make of the taxi.
Pedicab (San Lun Che)
Pedicab drivers congregate along busy intersections and tourist areas, offering weary pedestrians a respite from walking. Scenery passes by pleasantly in a pedicab—just remember to bargain before boarding.
Bicycle
Bike-riding in Beijing offers a wonderful perspective of the capital (especially if you stay off the large boulevards). Rent a bike at one of the city's hotels or hostels. Rates range from RMB 20-30/day plus a refundable RMB 100-200 deposit.
To and from Beijing
Air
Beijing's Capital International Airport lies 30 km (18.6 miles) northeast of the city center (a 45 minute car ride without much traffic). Reach the airport by taxi or airport bus (RMB 16) from the Xidan Civil Aviation Mansion, the Art Gallery, the entrance of Beijing Railway Station and the Princess Tomb. The trip from airport to the center runs about RMB 100.
Train
Beijing is home to two main train stations: Beijing Railway Station (Beijing Zhan) and Beijing West Station (Beijing Xi Zhan). Double check your ticket to make sure you know the correct departure station. Beijing Railway Station serves major destinations including Shanghai, Guangzhou and Harbin as well as Russia. Beijing West Station connects to long-distance destinations to the south and west including Vietnam and Hong Kong. Six smaller stations provide additional regional service. Purchase tickets at the foreign passenger ticket office in the main station's soft-seat waiting room or ask your hotel or travel agent to arrange train travel for you.
Bus
Beijing's 12 long-distance bus stations provide numerous options for travel to cities around China, however bus travel can be quite tricky if you don't speak some Mandarin. The main bus stations include Xizhimen, Dongzhimen and Zhaogongkou. Local buses are cheap but often slow because of traffic and almost always crowded. Fares ar
Long a place for artists and craftspeople to hone their skills and for traders to ply their wares, Beijing remains a wonderful place to find art, antiques, and handicrafts—as well as the bounty of modern China's churning factories. Shops and markets hold a wealth of Chinese calligraphy, paintings, carpets, embroidered silk, jewelry, stone chops, Chinese musical instruments, furniture and Mao memorabilia. There's also a plethora of real and knock-off luxury watches, bags and clothing, pirated DVDs and sports equipment of top quality as well as questionable provenance.
Beijing's Qianmen Lu houses many traditional stores including Chinese medicine shops, silk shops, teashops, and some great Chinese snack shops, including Duyichu, famous for its steamed shaomai (meat-flavored sticky rice). Xidan's night market is a great place for souvenirs. Liulichang is Beijing's antique district, with more than 100 vendors selling antique rugs, tapestries, art and historical memorabilia. Xiushui Silk Alley in Jianguomenwai offers a maze of hawkers selling Mao-emblazoned goods and clothing. Modern shopping malls filled with international brands line Qianmen Lu, and the city's recent boom has given rise to a number of modern malls and high-end shopping complexes. Beijing also has several amazing flea markets. Bargain for knick-knacks on the weekends at the Yashuo Market in Sanlitun and Panjiayuan Market near the Panjiayuan Bridge or explore the three floors of clothes, electronics, pearls and artwork at the Hongqiao Market (aka Pearl Market), located near the Temple of Heaven.
Visual artists, musicians and writers from around China—and, increasingly, from around the world—are drawn to Beijing for the same reason European artists flocked to Paris or Americans to New York in the past. The scene is established, but it still has a way to go, as the government continues to loosen restrictions that previously made things like rock shows, experimental theater and poetry punishable offenses. Part of the joy of Beijing today is being in the midst of what may emerge as a cultural boom every bit as impressive as China's economic boom. Clubs & Bars Today's Beijing offers a wide range of nightlife activities, from dive bars and chic lounges to mega clubs and live music venues.
The city's most notorious bar street is Chaoyang's Sanlitun: a main drag and several off-shooting alleys and lanes, lined with drinking establishments, many featuring Filipino cover bands, offering hookah. Not far from Sanlitun, on Gongti Bei Lu, mega clubs like Mix and VICS dominate the dance scene, offering locals, expats and tourists a heavy dose of hip hop and R&B.
On the more posh circuit, clubs like Block 8 (8 Chaoyang Park West Road, Tel: 010-6508-8585) and LAN (B12 Jianguomen Waidaji, 4/F Twin Tower, Tel: 010-5109-6012) appeal to Beijing's new upper class, while a host of rock venues: D-22, MAO Livehouse, 2 Kolegas and Yugong Yishan cater to the city's burgeoning music scene. Museums & Galleries Chinese art has recently experienced a boom, museums and galleries bringing in the goods to feed a hungry public. Contemporary art receives a lot of press, but Beijing is, of course, also home to priceless ancient artifacts. View ancient Yuan and Ming Dynasty lacquer ware at the Capital Museum and classic Chinese painting and calligraphy at the Beijing Art Museum. For contemporary art, check out the 798 Art District, the Wan Fung Art Gallery, Creation Gallery, or the Courtyard Gallery. Additionally, consider Beijing's China Palaeozoological Hall, home to many scientific and historical subjects, or the Ethnic Museum, which features exhibits focusing on China's 56 designated minority groups.Performing Arts Clubs & Bars Experience the world-famous Beijing Opera at the old Huguang Guildhall Theater, Chang'an Theater, Lao She Teahouse or any number of other venues. Theatrical offerings range from traditional folk dramas and music to contemporary Chinese theater. Kung Fu is also on display at the Red Theater, while Chinese acrobats display their talents at the Chaoyang Theatre. Western and classical Chinese music are both on the schedule at the Beijing Concert Hall, while Century Theatre focuses more on smaller chamber performances and the occasional ballet. The Forbidden City Concert Hall is the perfect venue for traditional Chinese music, while the Poly Plaza International Theatre features a mix of dance, opera and classical music performances. Festivals & Events Beijing is developing a reputation for big events, and its calendar seems to be growing as fast as the rest of the city. Traditional festivals fall on dates determined by the lunar calendar, while modern holidays and festivals follow the Western calendar. Chinese New Year and the Spring Festival are occasions for colorful temple fairs around the city. The rest of the year features all the traditional and religious celebrations—the Lantern Festival, Guanyin's Birthday, Tomb Sweeping Day, and the Moon Festival among them—as well as modern state observances such as Labor Day and National Day. Finally, in recent years cultural events and festivals, such
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